Osh is like the whole of Central Asia in one place. Culture, geography, history, and food wise. It is a city where the oriental atmosphere is fused with the ghost of the Soviet past and modern tendencies. This is where the lush valley and dry steppes meet the mountains. A place where the nomadic spirit is in symbiosis with the vibrance of sedentary life. Embracing Osh is like embracing the whole of Central Asia. 

Hence, here is all you need to know about Osh City. In a simplified form you will find a piece of basic information, practical information, and things that only locals know. 

Basic information a geography teacher would ask you about Osh:

• Osh is the second largest city in Kyrgyzstan with an official population of around half a million people (454,000 to be precise).
• Osh is located in the Southeastern part of Fergana Valley. Fergana Valley is the most densely populated area in Central Asia with an average population density of 200 people per square kilometer.  
• It is the oldest city in Kyrgyzstan and a place of continuous settlement since the late bronze age. We proudly say that Osh is 3000 years old and back in 2000 we celebrated its 3000 anniversary. 
• Despite being half the size of Bishkek in terms of population, Osh is larger than Bishkek territory-wise. The reason is embedded in Osh being stretched and mostly one-story.
• Osh is ancient as Rome and it is built on hills like Rome. Several neighborhoods are elevated on hills called 1 Adyr, 9 Adyr, and 10 Adyr (adyr means hill). The major hill that can be seen from anywhere is the mountain Sulaiman-Too which is the main pride and attraction of Osh. Hence, the elevation of the city varies from 870 to 1110.  
• Osh is built along the banks of the Ak-Buura River. Ak-Buura is generally translated as the White Camel due to the legends about the origin relating the river to a camel. Once upon a time, it was a wild river, tamed only in the middle of the XX century. Up until nowadays, this river is the main source of drinking and irrigation water which supplies not only Osh but also its surrounding settlements until crossing the border and disappearing in Uzbekistan. 
• Osh has a continental climate with hot dry summers, cold winters (yes, it snows in Osh), and most pleasant springs and falls. Most likely, you will be coming to Osh in summer, so dress accordingly. Consider not only the temperature but also the local customs (check the “always spiritual” section. 

Practical facts about Osh:

• Regional transportation hub. Located on the southeastern part of Fergana Valley Osh always used to be a transit hub for travelers. The city is located on the border with Uzbekistan making it a great gateway to exploring the pearls of Silk Road. Osh is a gateway to the Pamir Mountains and an inevitable stop on the world-famous M41 (Pamir Highway) Journey. In a few hours of drive from Osh is the border with China which gives Osh another geographic and economic significance. Finally, Osh International Airport sends and receives flights from Bishkek, Issykul (Karakol around the year, and Tamchi in the summer season), major cities of Russia, Turkey, Kuwait, and Saudi Arabia. Can we claim the third similarity with Rome as all the roads lead to Osh?
• Osh is the food capital of Kyrgyzstan. Nobody in Kyrgyzstan disputes this statement. The simplest reason why Osh’s cuisine is so supreme is that it is a blend of nomadic and sedentary cooking legacies. See, nomads are known for supreme skills in pastoral husbandry, supplying the population with top-quality meat products. Meanwhile, the sedentary population provides diverse agricultural products and sharpened cooking skills. And when you combine the two, you get an apex cuisine: huge, delicious portions with tons of meat for a reasonable price. Without writing any further, just check the page on what to eat in Osh.  
• Always spiritual. A long time ago, Osh became a spiritual center of Fergana Valley due to Sulaiman-Too Mountain. Since then, the people of Osh have practiced several world religions, and each time they were serious about their faith. Nowadays aren’t an exception. Osh (and the south in general) is more religious than other regions of Kyrgyzstan. You will notice more ladies covered according to Islamic standards or at least dressed modestly. You will encounter more mosques and frequently hear the calls to prayer. So the advice for any visitor is to dress modestly without exposing too much. Yet, even if you skip this informal rule and wear an exposed outfit, nobody will approach and start a beef with you. You will simply get unnecessary judging glances from people passing by.
• Old meets New. Osh is the city of contrast. About almost everything. Old architecture vs new, traditional ways vs. progressive, traditional economy vs. market economy, etc. Walking on its streets you will come across the pre-Soviet architecture vastly contrasting with modern tall buildings. You will see how a Soviet Stalinist building hosts a modern coworking center with a fancy coffee shop. And you will see, how traditional bazaar economically competes with modern malls.   

Some other useful tips:

• Try to visit Sulaiman-Too in the morning or closer to the evening to avoid the summer heat. But don’t be too late if you want to visit the cave museum which closes at 6 pm.
• While choosing where to stay in Osh, think of the hotel/guesthouse/hostel and the neighborhood that meets your goals and interests. For this, check the page about the major neighborhoods and places to stay in each of them.
• If you are traveling to Uzbekistan from Osh plan your border crossing reasonably. The least crowded days are Wednesdays and Thursdays. The best time to cross is the morning. Check my guide on crossing the Dostuk Checkpoint. 
• If you are going to Pamir Highway do your research in advance. It is once in a lifetime experience (of course if you are not planning to make it again). Prices and offers can vary a lot and some travelers fall victim to cheap service. I’m not saying to choose an expensive one. Just don’t let the price fool you.
• Request the special permits in advance. Due to bureaucracy, obtaining the permit may take longer than promised. So request the permits in advance. Be as specific and concrete as possible because there were cases when tour companies would confuse the locations and obtain the wrong permits.  
• Let your body adapt to the local food. I know it is delicious. I know it is tempting. But start slowly if you want to avoid the diarrhea. 
• Don’t drink the tap water as your body isn’t used to it. The tap water is safe to drink for locals. But you have to boil it. And don’t get the drinks with ice, as it is the same unboiled tap water which can cause food poisoning. You are welcome.